@Grozby88 Thank you Sir! ✌
@Topsie OMG it's great! Please direct me to who made them so I can thank them (although I have a feeling it's you). :-) I can get all the way to my work surface with any bit I use. I will still do your ER11 conversion once I get the collet chuck from China, since it will alow for so many different shank sizes.
Another practice run with 4 roughing 3d adaptive passes and one 2d coutouring/shamfering pass:
I messed up the 3rd pass by making the work offset position a liiiittle too low, but that's nothing a bit of sanding can't fix. :-)
Cheers,
JR
Hey guys,
First cuts with Acrylic. Made a transluscent dust boot. I want to see what I'm cutting while keeping the space as clean as possible.
Top and bottom plates are 3mm, Middle chamber is 10mm. Some picture below.
All parts flame polished (with MAP gas). For even better results sand the sides with high grain sand paper before flame polishing.
Next step is to find some way to install a bristle skirt around it in order to block chips from escaping from the sides. Any suggestions are welcome :)
Cheers,
JR
P.S. Acrylic stinks when being cut!
Nice work Jean Robert !!! I love the dust boot ! and nice Aorus logo too !!
Could you explain how to make the logo please !!! step by step ? Thanks in advance !
Very nice Acrylic cut, can you tell us your cutting parameters ? (Spindle speed, cut speed, bit diameter and number on tooth etc...)
Good job !
Here we go!
1- Find the SVG file with the logo you want to mill/engrave.
a. If you find it, go to step 4
b. If you can’t find an SVG, find an image instead and go to step 2
2- Install Inkscape, which can be found here and is free: (click the “Free download for Windows” Link)
3- Follow instructions on how to convert your image to a SVG spline path in this video
4- In Fusion 360, after having created your surface object, go to insert --> insert SVG from the top bar to the right and select the surface you want to apply the SVG to. You can also create a Sketch on the surface, use the same steps and apply the spline path to the Sketch. It's up to you.
5- You will have options to resize and rotate the logo as you see fit before clicking ok and applying it to your surface. At that point, you can play around with extruding and chamfering to get the look you want.
This is the set of operations I used:
The parameters are conservative for this CNC. I post-processed with these parameters, but I uped my RPM on the router manually to 17000 (“3” on the dial for the Makita). CNCjs allows you to increase/decrease the percentage of feeds and speeds by 1% or 10% increments, so I played with those as the machine was working if I felt more confident (or nervous) about cutting faster. I’ll have to babysit things for a while until I’ve mastered speeds and feeds overall as a concept so that I can "set it and forget it" in the future.
The bits were all flat end single flute, ranging 4 decreasing sizes (see image) which had less and less work to do as I used REST machining on each subsequent cut. The final cut was with a 12.7mm 90 degree V-shape bit which I used on the coutour of all the letter, which a 3mm limit on depth.
I used the same parameters mentioned above for all my cuts, but I think I could push it further with acrylic.
I used 3 carbide bits:
- 6.35mm single flute flat end mill (main holes and outer contour)
- 2mm single flute flat end mill (M4 screw holes)
- 12.7mm 90 degree V-shape bit (Main holes chamfering)
I have a lot of acrylic projects coming up, so I’ll home in on the values as I cut more and more and will let everyone know what the sweet spot is. I should also mention that flame polishing had more to do with the clarity of the sides that my choice of milling operations and tools.
Cheers,
JR
Hello all, I am new in the forum (writing from Madrid). Thank you for all the info and designs.
I am starting to print parts for the heavy CNC with the "more depth z axis" but a I do not know how to couple the dust shoe part. I have seen you have adapted teh part but I can not see in detail...
Can you help me?.
Thank you in advance.
Ola @spz101,
The dust boot was actually milled from acrylic with my completed Heavy Topsie CNC. You wouldn't be able to 3D print it such a clear finish. I can provide the Fusion 360 plan for it, but by the time you can actuall make it, you'll need to have:
So there's still a ways to go before you can produce the boot (at least the way I made it).
Nonetheless, I'll make the model available on Thingyverse and put up a link to it asap.
Cheers,
JR
Thank you for the answer. I was referring to the part connecting with the deeper z axis not propoerly the dust boot.
But anyway, I will wait for your design.
thank you
Yes I made a dust collector holder for the moredepth version ^^
Hi all,
Update:
Next: Acrylic water distribution plate for my PC waterloop.
Cheers,
JR
